It might astonish you to learn that these posts actually have a bit of preparation behind them. I usually write notes and then work from those and the photos to get a post together. This one’s notes were actually written sitting on a step in the Abbey Nave in Dunfermline, under those pillars architecturally interesting as ever and reminding me in style of Durham Cathedral. The last Loose Ends post was the National Museum of Scotland and that could lead virtually anywhere. In the end the link between NMS and Dunfermline was that Edinburgh is the current capital of Scotland and Dunfermline was once our capital. Plus Edinburgh was the birthplace of King James VI (I of England) while Dunfermline was where his son Charles I was born, as I was reminded at the gate of the Abbey. Usually I just go to the Abbey Nave though this time I also went to the Palace, once the Abbey’s guesthouse until it was taken over by James VI’s wife, Anne of Denmark, and became an expansive palace even if it was only used for a brief time. There were connections galore as I walked around, indeed in the gatehouse is a display of gargoyles and other features with photos of other places with similar things, including Linlithgow and Aberdour visited in this series already. All sorts of links were coming to mind, Charles I leading to Oliver Cromwell and the Cromwell Harbour in Dunbar. Anne of Denmark would lead to North Berwick and its witch trials. Mason’s marks would lead to Rosslyn Chapel with the Mason’s and Apprentice’s Pillars. Graffiti in the Palace reminded me of the fine graffiti on the walls of Crichton Castle in Midlothian. Indeed the only place that I hadn’t been to before was Brechin Cathedral, mentioned in the gatehouse display.I had forgotten how good the Palace is in Dunfermline, a secret staircase leading down to the range and vaulted cellars. As I took my leave, the same guy was still bending the stewards’ ears about the Picts as when I had gone in.The Abbey Nave just makes me smile, sprays of coloured light just like Durham Cathedral with chevron pillars and the rest. It is braw. There are also examples of pre-Reformation decoration and fine carvings. My hay fever was particularly bad that day and my sneezes echoed high into the ceilings. The cellars of the Palace and the Abbey Nave itself were perfect for such a warm day and I sat there for a bit, scribbling notes and just looking around. Behind me in the Abbey Church was the grave of Robert the Bruce, making me think of trips to Melrose where his heart is buried or Dumfries where he killed a rival in a church. In the meantime I just sat and looked, feeling momentarily at peace amidst the ancient stones, at the centre of Scotland and its past revelling in where I was and where I might be another day.
Thanks for reading. Another Loose Ends post follows next week.